U-Joint Buying Guide

Michael O'Connor

March 20, 2025

4 min read

Michael O'Connor

March 20, 2025

4 min read

The U-joint allows for play while the vehicle is in motion. But it should be minimal.

The U-joint is responsible for allowing the driveshaft to move freely along with your vehicle’s suspension. If your U-joint wears out or develops too much play, you could be in for a bumpy ride, or your car might not move at all.

There are two big considerations when buying a U-joint:

OEM vs. heavy duty : For most stock vehicles, an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) U-joint is durable and strong enough. They can last 100,000 miles. If you have a modified vehicle that you race on the track or take off-roading—or if you have a lift kit—there’s extra strain on your drivetrain. Consider upgrading to heavy-duty aftermarket U-joints. Dana and Spicer are two well-respected OE suppliers that sell aftermarket parts. Or look for ACDelco and other OEM suppliers.

Greaseable vs. non-greaseable : Greaseable U-joints have a fitting that allows you to re-grease your U-joints if they regularly get waterlogged or dirty. Non-greaseable U-joints don’t have this level of serviceability, but they are stronger because they don’t have the internal grease channels that you find in greaseable U-joints. Greaseable U-joints require maintenance. Non-greaseable U-joints run until they fail.

Greaseable U-joints should be serviced. Every time you do an oil change or any time you find yourself wading through water or mud, we recommend attaching a grease gun to your U-joints and filling them until fresh grease runs out of their seals.

If your U-joint is exhibiting play and new grease doesn’t fix the problem, the U-joint needs to be replaced, not rebuilt. Non-greaseable U-joints are not meant to be rebuilt or regreased.

See our detailed step-by-step guide and video about replacing a U-joint - opens in new window or tab. . Also, learn more about the types of U-joints and when they go bad - opens in new window or tab. .

How Much Does It Cost for a New U-Joint?

A MOOG Non-Greaseable U-Joint with its original packaging, displayed on a white work surface. — MOOG is always a solid choice.

A standard U-joint from a reputable OE or OEM costs between $20 and $50. Heavy-duty versions can get up to the $75 to $100 range. Look for reputable names like ACDelco, Dana, and Spicer, which provide high-quality, long-lasting parts. With U-joints, you get what you pay for.

Replace your U-joints once you begin to notice symptoms of them going bad. Driving on a bad U-joint creates play in the whole driveline and can accelerate wear on these other parts:

Differential seals: The vibrations produced by a bad U-joint can damage the seal at the front of the differential. Check around the front of the differential for leaks. It may need to be replaced.

Driveshaft: Replacing your U-joints requires removing your driveshaft. Vibration from bad U-joints can damage the driveshaft and throw it out of balance. Check our guide on balancing driveshafts - opens in new window or tab. to see if it needs to be replaced. This is the perfect time.

Transmission seals : Just like the differential seals, bad U-joints can damage the seal at the back of your transmission. Check for leaks when you inspect the U-joints.

Yokes: When you are replacing your U-joints, you may notice burrs or other damage on the yoke where the U-joint connects. These should be filed down and cleaned with a scour pad. The grooves that accept the retaining clips for the U-joints must also be cleaned out. You can get in there with a flathead screwdriver.

Tools and Accessories for U-Joint Replacement

A torque wrench in its red plastic case, resting on the edge of a vehicle’s engine compartment. — Replacing U-joints is easier with a click-type torque wrench.

You can replace a U-joint with common tools. A socket set, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, and a hammer should get the job done. However, three other tools can make the job easier.

Torque wrench: You need to torque down the bolts holding in your driveshaft. This is made easier with a torque wrench. Get a click-type torque wrench because you will face tight confines that make a beam-type torque wrench challenging.

U-joint press tool: You can hammer out a U-joint using a hammer and a socket that’s the same diameter as the bearing cap on the U-joint. But a U-joint press does the same thing with less effort and more precision.

Vice: A bench vice makes it easy to firmly hold the driveshaft by the ends or yoke. The vice secures a position to press out the old U-joint and press in the new unit.

About the author

Michael O'Connor

Michael O’Connor is a Bay Area writer who grew up restoring classic cars. These days, he works on his 1979 Fiat Spider. Michael is an alum of Sonoma State’s Creative Writing program. He began professional auto writing in 2015, contributing to AutoList, CarGurus, Endurance Warranty, Safe-Guard, and other car sites.

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This article is meant to provide general guidance only. Automotive maintenance, repair, upgrade, and installation may depend on vehicle-specifics such as make and model. Always consult your owner's manual, repair guide for specific information for your particular vehicle and consider a licensed auto-care professional's help as well, particularly for advance repairs.